Moss Stitch Arm Warmers – FREE PATTERN!

I worked out this pattern while trying to think of something to make a friend of mine which I know she’ll use but which uses relatively little yarn!

Here’s what you’ll need:

  • Worsted weight yarn in 2 colours (approx 60g altogether).
  • 4mm Crochet Hook
  • Yarn Needle
  • Scissors

Difficulty: Beginner

Notes

These arm warmers are crocheted flat then sewn together, leaving a gap for the thumb.

Leave a few inches of tail after each colour change which you use to sew the seam (so that you’re using the corresponding colour for each section).

Written using US crochet terms.

These can be made in any size but either adjusting the starting chain length, or adding more rows (or less!). This way, you can also use any weight yarn you like, just make sure you adjust the starting chain accordingly. You can use any colours you like and can change colours whenever you wish – I’d love to see your designs!

Abbreviations 

Ch – Chain

Sc – Single crochet

Sk – skip

** – Repeat everything in between the stars

Pattern

Ch 33. Now check that the chain length fits easily around your hand. Adjust length accordingly in 2s. (E.g. Ch 31 or ch 35).

Row 1: Sc 32 across, turn

Row 2: Ch 3, sk 1st sc, sc in next, *ch 1, sk next sc, sc in next*. Repeat ** to end of row. Turn.

Rows 3-8: Ch 3, sc in first ch 1 space, *ch 1, sc in next ch space*. Repeat ** to end of row. Turn. (6 rows).

Change Colour

Rows 9-13: Ch 3, sc in first ch 1 space, *ch 1, sc in next ch space*. Repeat ** to end of row. Turn. (5 rows).

Change Colour

Rows 14-21: Ch 3, sc in first ch 1 space, *ch 1, sc in next ch space*. Repeat ** to end of row. Turn. (8 rows).

Change Colour

Rows 22-26: Repeat rows 9-13.

Change Colour

Rows 27-34: Repeat rows 14-21.

Row 35: Ch 1, sc in each sc and each ch space across. FO.

Fold the rectangle in half lengthways, and so the right sides are facing (the right side is the one you finished on). Sew up the edges using the corresponding colour of yarn for that section. After the top 4cm, I left a 5cm gap in the seam for a thumb hole, then continued to sew down the length of the seam. FO and turn right side out.

Thumb hole: attach yarn at any point around the thumb hole and sc evenly around it (aprox. 18 sc). FO and weave in all ends.

 

If you have any questions, let me know. I’d also like to see your arm warmers if you make some so please send me a picture/link!

NEW Pattern – Plushy Babies

I have designed a new pattern for some very cute and adorable little plushy babies. The pattern comes with 2 hat designs.

I am selling my pattern for £1.50 after next week, but for this week only (until Sunday 23rd) if you enter the code ‘NovemberPlushy’ at the Ravelry Checkout you get 50% OFF making the pattern only 75p!

Wanna see the cute little buggers? Voila!

 

To buy the pattern, just click here.

If you have any questions, please email me at josiecalvertbriggs@live.com

I would also LOVE to see the finished product if you do make one, so please send me your pics! 🙂

FREE PATTERN for Spiral Squares

I spent ages looking for a pattern for spirals in squares, and could not find one I liked, so I followed the instructions to make a spiral here. I then figured out how to turn various sized spirals into squares, so that I can make a blanket with fading spirals.

Fading Spirals

 

So here are the patterns for all 4 squares. To see detailed pictures on how to start the spirals, please follow the link above to the Snovej blog.

Abreviations

MR – Magic Ring

CH – Chain

SC – Single Crochet

HDC – Half Double Crochet

DC – Double Crochet

ST(S) – Stitch(es)

SL ST – Slip Stitch

FO – Fasten Off

Notes

I am using US crochet terms.

Yarn used is Jarol/Woolcraft Heritage (lovely to work with).

4mm crochet hook.

Total number of stitches around the outside of the spiral will be put in [square brackets] at the end of each round, total number of stitches made that round will be put in <these arrows> at the end of each round.

Large Spiral Square

Large Spiral Square

With yarn A make a MR, CH1, 1SC, 1HDC, 2DC, pull up a long loop so it doesn’t unravel when you’re working with the next yarn.

Change to yarn B, and work the same in the MR: CH1, 1SC, 1HDC, 2DC, pull up a long loop.

Change to yarn C, and work the same in the MR: CH1, 1SC, 1HDC, 2DC, pull up a long loop. [12] <12>

Pull the MR tight, then begin working with yarn A again. In the next colour: 2DC in the next 4 STS.

Repeat with the other 2 colours. [24] <24>

Return to yarn A: *1DC in next, 2DC in next ST* repeat 4 times.

Repeat with the other 2 colours. [36] <36>

Return to yarn A: *1DC in next 2 STS, 2DC in next ST* repeat 4 times.

Repeat with the other 2 colours. [48] <48>

Return to yarn A: 3HDC, 3SC, Sl ST, FO

Repeat with the other 2 colours. [48] <21>

Join yarn D (border colour) to any stitch and CH4 (counts as 1DC, CH1), 1DC in same ST, *1DC in next, 2HDC, 5SC, 2HDC, 1DC, (1DC, CH1, 1DC) in next* repeat from * around. [52] <52>

SL ST into corner space, CH3, (1DC, CH1, 2DC) in same space, *DC in each ST to next corner space (2DC, CH1, 2DC) in same space* repeat from * around, FO. Weave in ends. [68] <68>

Medium Spiral Square

Medium Spiral Square

With yarn A make a MR, CH1, 1SC, 1HDC, 2DC, pull up a long loop so it doesn’t unravel when you’re working with the next yarn.

Change to yarn B, and work the same in the MR: CH1, 1SC, 1HDC, 2DC, pull up a long loop.

Change to yarn C, and work the same in the MR: CH1, 1SC, 1HDC, 2DC, pull up a long loop. [12] <12>

Pull the MR tight, then begin working with yarn A again. In the next colour: 2DC in the next 4 STS.

Repeat with the other 2 colours. [24] <24>

Return to yarn A: *1DC in next, 2DC in next ST* repeat 4 times.

Repeat with the other 2 colours. [36] <36>

Return to yarn A: 2HDC, 2SC, SL ST, FO.

Repeat with the other 2 colours. [36] <15>

Join yarn D (border colour) to any stitch and CH4 (counts as 1DC, CH1), 1DC in same space, *1HDC, 6SC, 1HDC, (1DC, CH1, 1DC) in next space* repeat from * around. [40] <40>

SL ST into corner space, (CH3,1DC, CH1, 2DC) in same space, *DC in each ST to next corner space, (2DC, CH1, 2DC) in corner space* repeat from * around. [56] <56>

SL ST into corner space, (CH3,1DC, CH1, 2DC) in same space, *DC in each ST to next corner space, (2DC, CH1, 2DC) in corner space* repeat from * around. [72] <72>

Small Spiral Square

Small Spiral Square

With yarn A make a MR, CH1, 1SC, 1HDC, 2DC, pull up a long loop so it doesn’t unravel when you’re working with the next yarn.

Change to yarn B, and work the same in the MR: CH1, 1SC, 1HDC, 2DC, pull up a long loop.

Change to yarn C, and work the same in the MR: CH1, 1SC, 1HDC, 2DC, pull up a long loop. [12] <12>

Pull the MR tight, then begin working with yarn A again. In the next colour: 2DC in the next 4 STS.

Repeat with the other 2 colours. [24] <24>

Return to yarn A: 1HDC, 1SC, SL ST, FO.

Repeat with other 2 colours. [24] <9>

Join yarn D (border colour) to any stitch and CH4 (counts as 1DC, CH1), 1DC in same space, *5SC, (1DC, CH1, 1DC) in next space* repeat from * around. [28] <28>

SL ST into corner space, CH4 (counts as 1DC, CH1), 1DC in same space, *DC in each ST to next corner space, (1D, CH1, 1DC) in space* repeat from * around. [36] <36>

SL ST into corner space, (CH3, 1DC, CH1, 2DC) in space, *DC to next corner space, (2DC, CH1, 2DC) in space* repeat from * around. [52] <52>

SL ST into corner space, (CH3, 1DC, CH1, 2DC) in space, *DC to next corner space, (2DC, CH1, 2DC) in space* repeat from * around. [68] <68>

Blank Square

Blank Square

With yarn D: In MR – CH3 (counts as first DC), 11DC, join to top of CH3. [12]

CH3, 2DC in each ST around, join to top of CH3. [24]

CH3, *2DC in next, 1DC* around, join to top of CH3. [36]

CH4 (counts as 1DC, CH1), 1DC in same space, *1HDC, 6SC, 1HDC, (1DC, CH1, 1DC) in next space* repeat from * around. [40]

SL ST into corner space, (CH3, 1DC, CH1, 2DC) in space, *DC in each stitch to next corner space, (2DC, CH1, 2DC) in space* repeat from * around. [56]

SL ST into corner space, (CH3, 1DC, CH1, 2DC) in space, *DC in each stitch to next corner space, (2DC, CH1, 2DC) in space* repeat from * around. [72]

 

I haven’t finished messing around with these yet. I think I’m going to make a blanket with spirals fading from bottom to top. These are my squares so far:IMAG2729

 

I will take some more (better) pictures when it’s done, but I hope this has been useful to you. If you see any errors in the pattern, or if you want me to clarify anything, please let me know.

You may use the pattern freely, and sell items made from the pattern, I only ask that where possible, you credit me.

Thanks for reading! 🙂

Crochet Clutch Purse – Picture Tutorial

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Hello! I’ve decided it’s about time I posted my first tutorial! I worked out this little purse when coming up with something to make for a friend’s birthday present, and it turns out they’re addictive to make. I hope you enjoy making them as much as I have, and make sure to show me your pictures!

Yarn weight: I used DK, but you could use any, with a corresponding hook

Hook size: 4mm (or size appropriate for the yarn you are using)

Difficulty: Easy

Materials: Yarn, hook, button, needle

Abbreviateions: SLST – slip stitch, CH – chain, SC – single crochet, HDC – half double crochet, DC – double crochet, R – row, () brackets indicate the total for that row

NOTE: I am using the AMERICAN stitch terms.

Top: Drops Safran in Mint Green, Bottom: Sirdar Snuggly in Teal

Top: Drops Safran in Mint Green, Bottom: Sirdar Snuggly in Teal

Ok, let’s start!

Chain 25

3

R1: HDC in 3rd chain from hook,

4

and every chain across (23HDC), CH2 and turn

6

R2-23: HDC in every stitch across (23HDC), CH2 and turn

Fasten off

= 23 rows of 23 HDC

7

To make the flap:

R1: CH3, then 3SC in the 1st CH, CH1 and turn

10

R2: 2SC in each stitch (6SC), CH1 and turn

11

R3: *SC in next, 2SC in next*, repeat ** across (9SC), CH1 and turn

13

R4: *SC in next 2 stitches, 2SC in next*, across (12SC), CH1 and turn

15

R5: *SC in next 3 stitches, 2SC in next*, across (15SC), CH1 and turn

R6: *SC in next 4 stitches, 2SC in next*, across (18SC), CH1 and turn

R7: *SC in next 5 stitches, 2SC in next*, across (21SC), CH1 and turn

R8: *SC in next 6 stitches, 2SC in next*, across (24SC), CH1 and turn

R9: *SC in next 7 stitches, 2SC in next*, across (27SC), CH1 and turn

R10: *SC in next 8 stitches, 2SC in next*, across (30SC), CH1 and turn

R11: *SC in next 9 stitches, 2SC in next*, across (33SC), CH1 and turn

R12: SC in next 10 stitches, 2SC in next, SC in next 5 stitches, CH3, skip 3 stitches and SC in next 2, 2SC in next, SC in next 10 stitches, 2SC in next (17SC, CH3, 16SC), CH1 and turn

(This creates the button hole. Miss out the CH3 gap if you do not want a button hole, or adjust the chain length and number of stitches missed to adjust button hole size)

16

R13: SC in next 11 stitches, 2SC in next, SC in next 4 stitches, 3SC in chain 3 gap, SC in next 4 stitches, 2SC in next, SC in next 11 stitches, 2SC in next (39SC), CH1 and turn

R14: *SC in next 12 stitches, 2SC in next*, across (42SC)

18

Instead of fastening off, attach the flap to one end of the HDC rectangle you made, using a row of SC across the top.

20

Fold the bottom of the rectangle up to the top and SC along the sides.

To make the edging (change yarn here if you want a different colour):

SLST with new colour into first stitch of flap, *skip 1 stitch, 5DC in next stitch, skip 1 stitch, SLST in next*, repeat ** across.

23

Fasten off, sew in the ends, and attach a button

28

Voila!

26

Go forth, and make these in tonnes of different colours! Let me know if you encounter any problems with the pattern!

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**OR if you can’t be bothered to make your own, head over to my Etsy shop to buy one of mine! **

**Ravelry listing for this pattern: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/clutch-bag—purse-with-shell-edging**